Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5827980 Thu, 03 May 2012 02:26:53 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5827752
The only hitch was that adding the adapter to the carburetor shifted the choke cable clamp out far enough that it would no longer function.  It was not overly difficult to fabricate a little extension bracket that moved the clamp back to it's original position, so that was no big deal, though it might bother some people.

I took a few pictures of the process which, in hindsight, was really quite simple and straightforward -- just as the manual said it would be. (You can see the project pictures here.)

So "Thank you US Carburetor" for a great product.

Patrick

Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5827752 Thu, 03 May 2012 00:49:42 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5790739 After the initial break in with gasoline, will the valves and cylinder head need any lubrication due to "dry" Nat. Gas fuel ??...Are permanent Nat. Gas generator engines anything special compared to portable ones, since they are designed to run from the get go on Nat. Gas..??..In other words, can the these portable gas generators handle Nat. Gas and Propane without any long term damage or wear in the upper cylinder and valve area??  Thank You....

Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5790739 Tue, 10 Apr 2012 01:45:48 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5787814
I'm thinking that it makes most sense to use water instead of air.

* air to air exchangers are big, bulky, and only about 70% efficient.  Hard to make yourself. 

*  air to air have the possibility of leaks between the exhaust and the air, which may men Carbon monoxide in the air supply.  A Bad Thing.

*  Moving hot air any distance is a PITA.

Water on the other hand:

*  Can be stored in a big tank.  Generation and heating requirements don't occur at the same time. 

*  Insulating water lines means you can site the generator out of ear shot.

I think you could make a good DIY heat exchanger by stacking 3-4 small car radiators in a tube, so that the exhaust gas had to pass through all of the radiators in sequence, and the water  is set to flow in the opposite direction.  In essence a 3 stage counter flow heat exchanger.  Do it right, and the exhaust will exit at around 140 F.    This latter number is magic.  With efficient combustion you don't get much condensation above 140 F.  The air at that temp can hold all the water vapor produced by the burning of natural gas.  (Propane and gasoline produce less water per therm, so this temp may be lower for them.  Won't be much lower.

The problem with this may be the NOx in the exhaust.  Most engines produce some.  When the exhaust cools, water vapor condenses, and combines with the NOx to produce various nitric acids.  This may mena that the last stage radiator may have to be made of corrosion resistant material.

And you want to condense this water.  A lot of the heat in the exhaust is tied up in that water vapor.  The difference between a 95% efficient water heater and one that is only 83% is that the former has a condensing exhaust.


***

Numbers:  Last year we used  about 40 Gigajoules of gas. (400 therms).  At 16% efficiency, 50 GJ would produce about 2000 kWhr of electricity, and the same amount of heat for the house.  At this level it's not worth it.  That's only aboaut 1/6 of my power use for the year -- and my use peaks during the summer (irrigation) when I can't use the heat.

However we do a lot of our heating with wood. 

Suppose instead you do all your heating with NG.  Instead of 40 GJ its 130 GJ (Average for Alberta)  Now the power generated is equivalent to about 6 months use.  This is starting to look practical.  If you have some heating need that is proportionally larger than it's electrical need, it's an even better idea.  (E.g. shop, barn, chicken house, green house)

Any other thoughts on co-generation?

Anyone actually done this?

Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5787814 Sat, 07 Apr 2012 17:00:12 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5787692
I've got a cheapie Champion genset that I use on the farm.  I don't expect a lot from it.  It usually runs a compressor for using air tools in odd places.  I wouldn't consider a gas kit for it.  Don't use it enough.  Probably run 3-4 tanks a year through it.  And it can be used to keep the sump pump running during a long power outage.

When not in use it sits on the porch.  When on the job, when not running I cover it with a half a barrel, split lenghwise to keep the rain off it.  Not perfect.  It will blow off if the wind hits it right.

However . . .

People considering this conversion are planning on using a generator a lot.  Why does someone want a cover?   With a cover you have to go out there, get the snow, leaves, needles, off of it, remove the cover, put it somewhere, start the generator.  When you are done, you have to remember to go out there and replace the cover.  Meanwhile that covered space is a nice place for squirrels and mice and small birds to nest. 

In use it will still get wet, and be within reach of small kids and pets, and still be available to steal.

Seems to me that:

Short term: Throw a tarp over it, and weight down the corners.  This has all the disadvantages of a cover, and looks tacky to boot, but is cheap

Long term: You want a proper shed with controlled ventilation.  (Many engines seem to run better if they are kept close to one temp.  A generator can idle for long periods, and run too cold. Diesel engines in particular hate running cold.  Having a shed with louvers controlled by a gas cylinder lift arm (often used in greenhouses) means that during idle periods, the shed cools, the louvers close, and the engine stays hot.  Do it right, and you also have a sauna.

A shed also allows you to properly set up heat exchangers to salvage the 80% of the energy that would otherwise be wasted.  In a water cooled engine between 1/3 and 1/2 of that heat is in the water, with the rest being in the exhaust  This heat can be used to heat the house, heat a green house, heat a swimming pool...

The economics of self generated power aren't great until you factor in co-generation.  If you are paying for heat anyway, co-generating your power may make lots of sense. 



If this is for a job site, your generator should likely be in a trailer.  The same trailer can be used for tool lockup.

So I'm likely missunderstanding the normal use pattern for these generators. 

Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5787692 Sat, 07 Apr 2012 14:38:29 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5783529
1.  How efficient are the yamaha generators.

Answer:  It takes 20,000 btu/hr to make 2 HP for an hour which makes 1 KwHr. So a therm will make about 5 kwhr of electricity.  Or about 8 c / kwhr. 

This is the differential cost of power on my bill now.  I'd have the aggravation of keeping a generator running, but I'd save the wire fees on the bill. (about half)


2.  My power needs are VERY spikey.  Well pump comes on.  That's a 3/4 HP pump coming on with some load.  2 HP tablesaw comes on.  But the rest of the time, the power used is fairly small. -- A lot of the time it's only about 300 watts.  (Computers, internet modem, devices in standby mode.)

My understanding is that it takes about 10% of the rated power just to idle.  So if I needed an 8 KW unit, then it will use roughly (.8 * 2 * 10,000) = 16,000 BTU/hr just to idle.  About 8 cents an hour.   $60/month.  About the same as my wire fees for electricity.

At present my electrical service runs on a 35 A. breaker -- the smallest the power company will provide.  I've never tripped it.  Despite that some months we've used 1500 kwhr.  (The well provides irrigation as well as house water.)

So in some ways what I need is two generators.  One that provides 500 watts all the time, and one that is smart enough to run when needed.

Or I need a generator + battery + charger + inverter.  The generator comes on when the batteries drop to 50% capacity.

The inverter has to have enough power to handle the well pump, fridge/freezer and so on.  For the time being, assume 3 KW with the ability to handle twice that for start surges.

Hmm.

Sigh.  There are no cheap solutions.

Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5783529 Wed, 04 Apr 2012 19:17:44 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5782039 I recently purchased a modified EF6600de from USCarb.  It starts fine on gasoline, and starts and runs fine when I switch to propane, but it won't do a cold start on propane.  It doesn't fire at all.  Any ideas?

Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5782039 Tue, 03 Apr 2012 19:34:20 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5776654 Thanks,
Jay

Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5776654 Fri, 30 Mar 2012 20:26:23 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5776612

Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5776612 Fri, 30 Mar 2012 19:45:32 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5766430
Thanks,
Tony

Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5766430 Fri, 23 Mar 2012 18:04:36 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5744990 Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5744990 Fri, 09 Mar 2012 03:39:03 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5739989
Lot of info on your site, for sure, but can I simply buy an bolt on adapter for the inlet of the carb, a solenoid cutoff, and a regulator, and be pretty much be good to go ?

Thanks !

Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5739989 Mon, 05 Mar 2012 23:06:46 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5739359
This past week-end,  we had a power outage for 38 hours, due to a nasty snow/ice storm, here in northern Michigan.  This was the first I've had to use the generator, except to start it every other month.  It ran for 15.5 hours on a 20# tank of propane.  At $19.50 per fill, I figure it would be alot cheaper the run on natural gas.  Plus, not having to change the tanks in 10 degree weather and the icing of the tanks, would be a plus.

Sorry for the long intro.  Here is my question:  Is there anything specific, I need to do to run on natural gas?

Thanks

Tony

Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5739359 Mon, 05 Mar 2012 16:13:50 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5735601

Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5735601 Fri, 02 Mar 2012 20:03:24 GMT http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5733748 I purchased a uscarb conversion off Ebay. They claimed it would support up to a 60 HP engine. The engine I am trying to convert is 32 hp, (Continental R688-46) with a Solex carb. It is used on a loader tractor. The kit I bought did not have the proper adapter but I found one on Ebay that would fit. I think I have everything needed and am ready to fire it up. Before I do I have the following questions:

1. In the document "Additional Conversion Instructions and Test Procedures" it says to screw the load block in until it stops, then turn it out one turn for each 4 horsepower. For my engine this would be 8 turns; that seems like a lot. If I had a 60 HP engine I don't think I could get another 8 turns out of the screw. I have the Beam T60 regulator. Is 8 turns correct?

2. I see where the regulator can use coolant to circulate through it for warmth. The inlet and outlet are both plugged, do you thing I need to activate this system for a 32HP engine? If so, how are the plugs removed.

3. Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Leigh

Forum: Get help from the US Carb Techs ]]> http://uscarb.websitetoolbox.com/post?id=5733748 Thu, 01 Mar 2012 17:01:29 GMT